It was already raining lightly as we left the Eden wharf on the recently re-fitted ‘Connemarra’ for a trip out 5 nautical miles to the ‘mouth’of Twofold Bay.
John the skipper settled us in and introduced us to Dave his deckie, a local birdo who proved invaluable in identifying fast-flying birds and happily stood out in the rain and spray distributing the burley.
We were headed for an area of upwelling krill where both whales and seabirds had been feeding in the previous few days. It was pretty quiet on the way out until we came across 3 humpback whales who played in the swell, breaching well out of the water and twirling in the air before re-entering – magic!
When we reached our destination - 40 fathoms - miraculously the clouds parted and the sun came out. We then spent about an hour tossing shark liver burley about, marvelling at the birds this attracted close up to the back of the boat. We had great views of four species of Albatross (Shy, Salvin's, Yellow-nosed, Black-browed), Great Skua, Southern Giant Petrel, Short-tailed Shearwater, A. Gannet, Crested and White-fronted Tern. Brief and more distant views were also had of Fluttering Shearwater, Northern Giant Petrel and a Fairy Prion.
There were also thousands of ST Shearwaters flying about the horizon – on their migrations back from the Arctic to southern Australia. A few came to the boat, but more impressive was the scale of the numbers that were flying around at a distance.
After about an hour motoring slowly about and drifting, the clouds moved in again and the wind picked up, and John decided we needed to get back in a little early before it got too rough. A bit more tossing about and spray on the way back in, but everyone was very happy with the day.
Our accommodation was in very new and comfortable cabins in the Eden Tourist Park on the shores of Lake Curalo, adjacent to Aslings Beach. Despite the Lake not being currently open to the sea, and thus non-tidal and little attraction for waders, we managed to see 50 species while walking down to the ‘mouth’ of the Lake as well as around a very well constructed boardwalk at the Lake’s western end. The pick of the species (in my opinion) were close up views of Pied Oystercatcher, White-bellied Sea Eagle, Red-capped Dotteral and Sacred Kingfisher.
Sunday morning saw us touring the Scrymgeour’s property ‘Timbarra’ near Wyndham in the hills west of Eden. Many thanks must go to Alan and Lyn for their hospitality and wonderful stories of their many years work in rehabilitating a cleared property to the haven for native birds and animals that it has now become. Close up views had from their glass-windowed sunroom of Satin Bowerbirds, Crimson Rosellas and King Parrots coming in to feed, as well as a quick glimpse of a Rose Robin, was a fitting culmination to a very pleasant weekend.
Many thanks also to Jack Holland who organised the weekend, even though he didn't attend; and Sue Lashko for assisting with seabird ID.
Julie McGuiness